Chablis, a collage of Chardonnay often sown on fossilised oysters, spans almost 5,000 hectares of villages, valleys and riverbanks. When I last visited in 2010, producers were wary. Tough economic times spelled strain when it came to their major export market - Britain. But, on my latest visit, it felt as if they had learnt to minimise risk by reaching out to a number of new markets.
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