Champagne 2012 vintage report

By Emily Kearns

Published: 02 May, 2013

Although it is still too early for a clear consensus to emerge among the Champenois, a good number are getting so excited after the recent assemblage of the 2012 vintage that it is even being compared to those of 1959, 1969 and 1990.

Damien Le Sueur, director of production for Taittinger, has led the praise, declaring that "what seems clear about 2012 is that it meets all the requirements to be a great vintage".

Le Sueur told Harpers that his own team's sense of anticipation dated back to the harvest. "At the end of September, we really had great expectations. In tasting after tasting, we discovered that the 'vins clairs' were beautiful.

"The harvesting conditions were excellent with perfect weather with freshness in the morning, very healthy grapes and a yield far lower than usual. We have enjoyed working on the assemblage of each of our cuvées. The raw material is beautiful and we will not be disappointed."

Franck Nicaise, chef de caves for Henri Abelé, the small but high-quality producer based in Reims, was similarly enthusiastic. "The cool nights of September and the nice dry weather of the days allowed an ideal maturity ending," he said.

"The grapes' sanitary state was exceptional, the potential alcohol level reached the 10% level we aim for and the acidity was of a very high level - roughly 9g/l. The quantities harvested were medium, sometimes even small, but what a quality! In the wineries, the elders are searching for a similar year: 1959, 1969 or 1990. Appointment is made for 20 years hence for the verdict."

David Henault, chef de cave for Nicolas Feuillatte, the co-operative which produces over 9 million of bottles per annum and is the biggest seller of Champagne in France, thinks precise quality level will become evident sooner. "We will know if it is amazing in five or ten years' time," he told Harpers.

"The balance is the most important thing, and we have very high acidity and a lot of sugar. So I am really confident. I am also very excited as we could not make any of our top wine, the Palmes d'Or in 2010 or 2011, but we will definitely do in 2012."

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