Eco-certified wines carry clout with consumers

As more wine companies jump on the environmentally friendly bandwagon, achieving full organic or biodynamic certification gives producers greater credibility with the consumer.

That’s according to a growing number of wineries which have sought official recognition for their sustainable practices as they witness a spike in “greenwashing”, where companies make unsubstantiated or misleading claims about a product’s environmental benefits.

“Certification is a double-edged sword, it costs a lot in terms of time and money, but it also gives credibility in these times where greenwashing has become so prevalent,” said Johan Reyneke, owner of Stellenbosch-based Reyneke Winery.

For Reyneke, biodynamic wines are “terroir driven” and have a purity that is absent in wines subject to “gymnastics in the wine cellar”.

Angus Thomson from Urlar in Wairarapa, New Zealand, said “a segment of the public do care”, with more looking out for wines with eco-certification.

Urlar, which has been certified organic since the 2010 vintage, has its own herd of Highland cows and makes its own cow-horn prep, cow-pat pit prep, seaweed teas and compost. “We do label with an organic sticker – we believe you should shout about it,” Thomson said.

Organic or biodynamic certification sets producers apart from those “with a more lackadaisical approach,” according to Hamish Young, commercial director at New Generation Wines.

“Some of our estates are very rigorous” in their organic and biodynamic practices and want to let people know this by getting certified, he said.

Nor does he think producers use the organic or biodynamic labels to give their wine extra kudos or create marketing spin.

Not using chemicals in the vineyard is vital for ensuring grapes are ”more protected against diseases”, according to Stefano Girelli, director of Italian producer group the Wine People. “It also allows the natural character of the grape variety and the terroir to be expressed much better,” he said.

Benoit Fouassier, winemaker at Sancerre estate Fouassier Pere et Fils, agreed that while adhering to biodynamic principals “can be time-consuming and not without difficulties”, the quality of wines is far better. He disputed claims that getting certification is challenging.

“Because we have made working in harmony with the natural environment central to our philosophy, it becomes second nature – it is just a fact of how we work, rather than something we struggle against,” he said.

See Anne Krebiehl's blog on the Grape Debate - where Monty Waldin and Dr Richard Smart crossed swords on the benefits of biodynamic versus conventional viticulture.