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Wines in the press - September 23-26

The Guardian

Victoria Moore likes crackling so much that she once roasted an entire pork shoulder and managed to eat all the crispy, crunchy, fatty skin in a single sitting. The question, as ever, is what to drink with it? Moore tends to think white wine goes better as it makes it taste more succulent and the marriage works particularly well if you have tart-sweet apples somewhere in the dinner. A few options are a Falanghina or Tesco Finest Fiano, Italy 2009 (£5.99). One red that does go well with pork is Rioja. Older wines work best, but they also cost more, she recommends starting with a cheapie - Tesco Finest Viña Mara Rioja Reserva 2005 (£7.00). Heading up the price scale, Moore enjoyed the "faded splendour" of Viña Muriel Rioja Gran Reserva 1982 (£17.99, down from £24 when you buy two or more Spanish wines, Majestic).

The Times

How long does it take you to drink a bottle of wine once you've bought it? Asks Tim Atkin MW. The word in the wine trade is that nine out of 10 bottles are emptied within 48 hours of purchase. This move towards approachability began in the New World in the 1970s and spread to the Old. Atkin says even Bordeaux, has followed the trend - reds that used to take 20 years to soften in bottle are now ready within five. Atkin doesn't have a problem with this as not many of us have the patience or interest to squirrel wine away for years. But he can't help thinking that we're missing out on the very thing that makes wine unique: its ability to develop complexity over time. He suggests putting half a dozen bottles of the same in a wine rack and leaving them there for a year or two? Then, opening one every few months to taste how it's changed. "Almost without knowing it, you'll become a wine collector." For the wine rack he recommends Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône Villages 2009 (£7.49, Marks & Spencer).

The Telegraph

Susy Atkins says she loves September - but not for the state of her finances - having overspent on a summer holiday. Therefore it's an apt moment, to look at bargain wines. She's not talking £2.19 a bottle. "We all know that most of this is excise duty, VAT and packaging, which means the liquid inside cost tuppence to make, and so is horrid." The average price per bottle in Britain is nearer £4.50. So which countries do the best wine under a fiver? Atkins says Australia and Chile can deliver, but she prefers crisper, lighter wines and recommends looking towards the Loire Valley in France. For reds, Atkins thinks southern France still punches well above its weight with rich, ripe flavours at heart-warmingly low prices. The more basic Spanish reds have improved no end, especially those from lesser-known regions like Campo de Borja and Argentina can provide a gem. She adds overall, there's plenty to choose from, and believes the quality of cheaper wine has never been better.

The Daily Mail
Olly Smith recently spent a "magnificent" few months filming a show for Chilean television called Descorchando Chile (or Cheers From Chile in its English version). He says he learned many things while he was there, one is that we need to understand that Chile has the potential to become one of the most fascinating, daring and engaging wine nations in the world. Two grape varieties that stood out for Smith were Sauvignon Blanc and Syrah and he says there are some improving examples of Pinot Noir, too. What excites Smith most about Chilean wine, though, is innovation. "I'd love to see more Mediterranean sun-worshipping red grape varieties such as Touriga Nacional planted." He adds winemakers such as Alvaro Espinoza are creating wild and marvellous blends. Plus the country boasts some incredible winemaking talent such as Marcelo Papa and Adolfo Hurtado. His vote goes to Elqui Valley for its meaty, spicy Shiraz. "Chile may be 200 years old, but its wine trade seems to be experiencing a youthful creative spurt. Cheers - and viva Chile!"