Wines in the Press: Dispatches, discount wines and why men now drink pink

Published: 30 September, 2008

Jonathan Ray takes issue with the recent Dispatches programme on the use of chemicals in wine production, Jancis Robinson looks at which wines are being hardest hit by the credit crunch and Jane MacQuitty gives her view on why wine investment is not such a good idea. Meanwhile, Joanna Simon tell us why real men should drink pink.

Jonathan Ray, The Telegraph, Saturday 27 September 2008

The recent Dispatches programme scrutinising how chemicals are used as part of the winemaking process is still causing ripples, not least with Jonathan Ray. His take on it is this: "I would rather drink wine from the bottle than water from the tap (which lists no ingredients)... wine has many more vitamins and... doesn't arrive via someone else's bath plughole or digestive tract." Besides, points out one of the consultant neurologists he spoke to about the programme, if you're concerned about the miniscule proportion of additives or processing aids used in winemaking, you'd be best off being more worried about how much you actually drink.
Wine is there to be enjoyed argues Ray, and he suggests that you indulge with one of the following the week:

? 2006 Bonterra Zinfandel, California (£9.99, Waitrose)
? 2006 Domaine des Granges de Mirabel, France (£9.99, Booths, Vintage Roots, Bibendum)
? 2007 Muscadet Sur Lie, "Les Gautronnières", Domaine Bonneau-Huteau, France (£8.95, Festival Wines, France)

Jancis Robinson MW, The Financial Times, Saturday 27 September 2008

Assessing the ongoing impact of the credit crunch, Jancis Robinson predicts that hardest hit will be "middle ground" wines retailing at between £8 and £15. A great shame, she says, when it is these price points that are "the playground of a host of dedicated, individual, artisan wine producers." But it is not just such individual, "handcrafted" wines that have caught Robinson's eye this week, she is surprised to have found a hidden gem in the Constellation-owned Woodbridge line - a 2006 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Chardonnay that is "bursting with fruit, enlivened with a sizable proportion of racier Chardonnay". Other mid-priced gems that get the thumbs up from Robinson this week include:

? 2007 Domaine des Terres Dorées, Cuvée Première Beaujolais (£9 approx from several UK retailers)
? 2005 Sélections Anne-Claude Leflaive, Melon sur Granit Pays Nantais, Muscadet de Sèvre-et-Maine £62 for six bottles, www.armit.co.uk)

Jane MacQuitty, The Times, Saturday 27 September 2008

A few weeks ago Anthony Rose proved that fine-wine investment could pay off. But this week, Jane MacQuitty gives us her take on throwing money at vintage produce. "Wine investment schemes continue to lure gullible wine drinkers into believing that investing is fail-safe. It's not. Seasoned financial advisors know full well that wine, due to the variables of climate, storage, winemakers peccadilloes and changing public tastes, is too darned risky," she rants. And, adds MacQuitty at least one long-established family wine company is currently having difficulties. "All that glistens is not liquid gold" is her warning.
MacQuitty's top picks this week are:

? 2007 Storks' Tower Sauvignon Blanc Verdejo, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, Spain (£3.99, Tesco)
? 2006 Storks' Tower Tempranillo-Shiraz, Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León, Spain (£3.99, Tesco)
? 2006 White Burgundy, Antonin Rodet, France (£5.49, Sainsbury's)
? 2007 Cono Sur Gewurztraminer, Bio-Bio Valley, Chile (£5.99, Sainsbury's)
? 2005 Finca L'Argatá, Montsant, Joan d'Anguera, Spain (£12.95, Tanners)
? 2005 Pinot Noir by Farr, Geelong, Australia (£18.95, Tanners)

Anthony Rose, The Independent, Saturday 27 September 2008

The Bunch, that coalition of six independent wine merchants which includes Berry Bros & Rudd, Yapp Bros and Laytons, has gone from strength to strength as far as Anthony Rose's is concerned, due to its ability to source good value wines from lesser known sources. "Any suspicions I may have had that their good intentions would be lost in a haze of boozy consumption have long been dispelled" reports an impressed Rose, who found a bunch of delights at its most recent tasting including the 2007 Domaine de Terres Falmet's "peppery, cherry-fruity" Cinsault, priced at £6.75 from Berry Bros & Rudd). Other tipples taking Rose's fancy this week include:

? 2007 Estiba 1 Torrontés, Bodegas Esmeralda (£4.00, Majestic)
? 2007 Negro, Roero Arneis (£9.95, Great Western Wines)
? 2006 Stonier Reserve Chardonnay Monrington Peninsula (£102.55 for 6, Marks & Spencer)

Tim Atkin MW, The Observer, Sunday 28 September 2008

The supermarket trend towards credit-crunch wine has not gone unnoticed by the tastebuds of Tim Atkin this week, and when it comes to his review on cut price vino he's pulling no punches. Sainsbury's Don Simón Selección Tempranillo wins his accolade for "the nastiest vino I've sampled this year; a thin, acidic, fruitless, over-cropped red with raw, palate-puckering tannins." His attack on Sainsbury's 'great value' selection doesn't stop there, Atkin compares a recent tasting of the range as like "being tortured by (a) sadistic dentist." It's not all bad news for brands at £3 and under - Aktin recommends the "spicy, juicy, raspberryish" 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo - a snip at £2.98 from Asda. On the whole he concludes that bargain basement produce is best tipped into your mulled wine. But if you must dabble, try out one of these:

? 2007 Vina Decanca Rosado, Utiel Requena (£3.29, Aldi)
? Sainsbury's Portuguese red, Vinho de Mesa (£3.29, Sainsbury's)
? 2007 Vieille Fontaine Wine, Plaimont (£3.45, Tesco)

Joanna Simon, The Sunday Times, Sunday 28 September 2008

Thanks to a bit of celebrity sports star endorsement, real men now drink pink, says Joanna Simon. Former footballer David Ginola recently launched his own rosé, and French Flair, a rosé produced north of Toulouse, is sporting a picture of recently retired international rugby star Thomas Castaignède on its label. But not forgetting all those red blooded males threatened by the idea of a glass of the pink stuff, Simon has balanced her column with some decidedly manly picks this week, including a robust organic ale:

? Stinger Organic Ale (£1.89 - £1.99, selected Budgens, Threshers, badgerdirect.com)
? 2007 Monty's French Red (£7.99, Adnams)
? 2005 Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon (£6.49, Co-op)