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The Guardian

Published:  23 July, 2008

It's a time of year when I find myself irresistibly led towards a single, cool glass of Sancerre ros,' says VICTORIA MOORE. One of the chief joys of this particular type of pink is its paleness, she continues. Why are so many of the ross you find in this country a deep, ripe-raspberry near-red?' The Sancerre stamp on the label means the cheapest of these wines are around a tenner but Moore thinks they're worth it. Try 2005 Domaine Vincent Delaporte Sancerre Ros (11.75; Lea & Sandeman). Moore's question from a reader this week is: What wine do you use to cook with? Will just anything do?' She replies that this is certainly not the case saying: After all, you wouldn't make spaghetti carbonara with artisan pasta, free-range eggs and Tesco Value bacon would you?' Her advice would be to use wines such as the simple, lemony Mcon Villages Cave de Prisse (4.99; Waitrose) or the highly respectable' 2004 Bourgogne Chardonnay (6.99; Marks & Spencer).