The Observer

On a trip to Tulbagh Mountain Vineyard, South Africa, TIM ATKIN MW discovers that he's not the only fan of the country's grapes. The animals at this winery like the taste of grapes and are prepared to do anything to get at them.' Half the 2005 crop was stolen by baboons and Atkin, for one, is not happy about this state of affairs, saying it's one of the most exciting new wineries I've come across in the past decade'. He singles out 2004 TMV Viktoria (11.49; Richards Walford) as one of his two favourites from the range. He also comes across a producer who makes one of the best Sauvignon Blancs in the southern hemisphere': Wynand Hamman at Fryer's Cove. The 2004 vintage is available (9.68) from Anthony Byrne Fine Wines.