Eamonn Houston explores three different tapas menus at El Pirata Detapas

El Pirata Detapas, 115 Westbourne Grove,London W2 4UP

Tapas. Such a sweetly varied way to dine and Notting Hill's El Pirata Detapas is poised to treat fans to three months of regional tapas specialities from Spain's northern Navarra, Catalunya and the Basque regions.

Head chef, Omar Allibhoy, has created three distinctive menus rooted in the regions, featuring cocina nueva blends - traditional dishes with modern twists - all with ingredients sourced from artisan Spanish producers.

Each menu features 10 different regional tapas designed for two to share.

The Catalunya menu boasts broad beans with Serrano ham, traditional cod samfaina and pig trotter carpaccio with truffle oil.

Go northwards to Navarra for a menu timed to coincide with Pamplona's San Fermin Festival (yes, the one which sees the bulls chase the crowds through cobbled streets).

The dishes showcase roasted fresh cod with ajoarriero piquillo pepper sauce, chicken chilindon, paprika with Serrano ham sauce and menestra vegetable stew.

On to the Basque region with specialities such as mussel croquettes, red kidney bean stew and black pudding and cuttlefish with black rice.

Allibhoy says that regional tapas has yet to be fully discovered in the UK. According to the Madrid native: "I am so proud of my culinary heritage and the quality of our ingredients that I want everyone in London to try it."

Each of the menus cost £20 per person with a minimum of two people per table and run until August when tapas from the Basque country takes centre stage. The Navarra menu is available throughout this month before it makes way for the charms of Catalunya.

The wine list focuses on indigenous varieties such as Tempranillo, Godello, Garnacha, Viura and Albarino. New wines being introduced for the special menus include Nerola 2006, a Viura/Garnacha Blanca blend from Catalunya (£24) and Enate 2006, a Gewürztraminer from Somantano (£26).

House wines range from a £3.75/£13.50 Tempranillo from Castilla to a Rioja Reserva (£8/£30) and somewhat suprisingly there are only three sherries on the list.

• Sommeliers