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Published:  23 July, 2008

By Nicolas Belfrage MW & Franco Ziliani

Marchese Nicol Incisa della Rocchetta's estate at Bolgheri, Tenuta San Guido, has announced the birth of a third wine to follow the legendary Cabernet Sassicaia and the Merlot/Cabernet blend Guidalberto. This is Le Difese, 80-90% Sangiovese, the rest being Cabernet. The wine will initially be produced in very small quantities and is destined for limited distribution at a (relatively) modest price of E8-10. Indeed, the whole operation seems to be very sotto voce. I can't think', said the Marchese, why so much expectation should have built up over this wine. A little cousin for Sassicaia? We shall see - for the time being sales have been limited to the Bolgheri area.' Is this, people are asking, just more evidence of the crisis descending on Italian wines, following the recent announcement of a x5 cheapie from normally high-priced Il Terriccio?