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Financial Times

Published:  23 July, 2008

Jancis Robinson's musings focus on Davos and a tasting she recently organised there. Her brief was "to choose some notable wines from countries or regions with a tradition of mining". In between visits from the president of Israel and Forbes magazine's seventh most powerful woman in the world, she even found time to identify the best of the bunch. 2001 Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon (12.99, buywineonline.co.uk) fared well - particularly notable as the only South African red at the tasting and also the least expensive. The tasting group's favourite and Jancis' third choice wine was the 2001 Moss Wood Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River (43, winesearcher.com).

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The Independent

Published:  23 July, 2008

Like his contemporary at The Observer, Anthony Rose has also picked up on Anpaa's recent legal case - describing France's alcohol policy as a result of the draconian 1991 Evin Law. He continues: "It does seem odd that myopia and sanctimony should coexist in a nation synonymous with the production and consumption of many of the great wines of the world." Not to be discouraged though he selects the 2006 Porta Chardonnay (5.99, Threshers), the 2006 Gavi Cristina Ascheri (9.99, Sainsbury's) and the 2004 Domaine des Bosquets, Gigondas (14.95, Jeroboams).

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The Guardian

Published:  23 July, 2008

Poor VICTORIA MOORE is not a happy journalist, complaining that the samples she had to try this week were not all that nice'. As a consequence she decides to use two of her four recommendation slots to list wines not to buy'. One wine she thinks is quite nice isdoes give the thumbs up to is 2004 Bastide Saint Vincent Vacqueyras Pavane (10.75; Berry Bros & Rudd).

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The Times

Published:  23 July, 2008

Ignore the "good but rarely great" 2006 Burgundy vintage at your own peril, states Jane MacQuitty. While the heavyweight 2005 vintage "slumbers on", we can be enjoying the "fruity, forward 2006" in the meantime. And her choices for doing so? Well, there are several but Lamy's St Aubin ler Cru Les Frionnes. Barthod's Bourgogne Rouge and Chambolle-Musigny all make the list as does Rossignol-Trapet's Chapelle-Chambertin. (120 - 900 per case from specialist merchants).

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The Sunday Express

Published:  23 July, 2008

Warming winter reds are the order of the day for Jamie Goode. Among his picks are Churchill Estates 2005 Douro (8.99, Majestic) for its "warmth and intensity" and Mont Tauch Fitou 2005, Languedoc (3.98, Asda) for its price point and its suitability "with any winter casserole".

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The Guardian

Published:  23 July, 2008

Victoria Moore evaluates some of the better Champagnes available while pointing out it is "not just for parties and toasting new jobs". Taittinger Prelude Grands Crus NV (35.99, Majestic) is "supremely elegant and full of grace" and worth trading up for from the ordinary Brut Reserve, she says. 1996 Fleury (38, Vintage Roots) rates high in Moore's affections also with its "honeyed, pillowy nougat flavours" and its biodynamic pedigree.

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The Observer

Published:  23 July, 2008

This week, French NGO Association Nationale de Prvention en Alcoologie et Addictologie (Anpaa) has really got Tim Atkin's goat. The "alarmingly puritanical" group that deals with the illegal promotion of alcohol in France recently won a case for a Champagne advert in magazine Le Point. "Even in America, the land of pointless lawsuits, this would be regarded as over the top", Atkin argues. On the wine front his recommendations - with alcohol content henceforth included in the column - featured a 2006 Petit Chablis, Jean de Chaudenay (6.99, Sainsbury's) and La Monacesca Verdicchio di Matellica (7.99, Waitrose).

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The Observer

Published:  23 July, 2008

Why sit in a bath of baked beans for charity, when you can have a nice glass of wine instead, asks TIM ATKIN MW? Wine Relief runs until 16 March and until that date 10% of the value of certain wines at participating retailers goes to Comic Relief. Atkin reviews the selections offered by those participating, as well as naming the retailers conspicuous by their absence - Oddbins and Asda.
Tesco, M&S, Majestic and the Co-op are offering an interesting range, whereas Somerfield and Morrison's offering is dull'. Atkin has a dig at the host of branded wines. He says, I suspect some brand owners regard Wine Relief as just another opportunity to promote their wines.' Wherever did he get that idea?

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The Daily Mail

Published:  23 July, 2008

No MATTHEW JUKES, just some decanters - from the Admiral (www.aquascutumgifts.com; 295) to the Olivia (www.gobletdirect.co.uk; 28.95).

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The Observer

Published:  23 July, 2008

TIM ATKIN MW defends Chardonnay - the world's greatest white grape' - against the ABC movement. He says it suffers for its popularity: being easy to grow, pronounce, make and sell, but notes it makes wines that are rarely undrinkable', compared with styles that are popular as well as bad - White Zinfandel and most Pinot Grigio'. He admits that vast plantings of Chardonnay at the expense of indigenous grapes has reduced the diversity of the wine world but has also helped drinkers discover other varieties it is often blended with. And they don't all taste the same or cost a fortune, he notes, selecting four under 14 from Chile, South Africa and France.

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The Sunday Telegraph

Published:  23 July, 2008

Follow your heart when you choose a red wine, says SUSY ATKINS, who raises a glass (two small ones over dinner, not a whole bottle on an empty stomach) to antioxidants. She goes over the much-repeated facts (see Jamie Goode's feature in Harpers on 12 January) about how the grape skins and seeds of red grapes hold most of the protective properties and how those grown at high altitudes are especially potent because the longer ripening season produces extra pigments in their skins (ergo more antioxidants). She cites Professor Roger Corder's book, The Wine Diet, saying we should concentrate on Sardinian and southern French styles. There's no Italian pick but Atkins likes the 2003 Chteau Peyros Tempo Madiran (4.99 or 3.99 for two; Majestic).

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The Sunday Times

Published:  23 July, 2008

JOANNA SIMON takes a look at Shiraz/Viognier blends and reminds drinkers that while a small percentage of the white grape enhances the perfume, texture, and colour of the Shiraz, more isn't always better - sometimes 5% is too much. While the idea stems from Cte-Rtie in the Northern Rhne, it's Australia that makes most of these blends. Her best-value pick is 2004 Yering Station (9.99, Sainsbury's).

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The Sunday Telegraph

Published:  23 July, 2008

It is time to crack open a full-bodied red, says SUSY ATKINS. Dismissing the namby-pamby drinks she has been sampling recently, she turns her attention to powerful reds that can measure up to hearty cold-weather stews. I've heard of Aussie winemakers refer to them as wines with grunt' - an apt description of red packed with concentrated fruit and chunky, almost chewy tannins,' she observes. The best big reds come from warm vineyard sites in South Africa, Spain, Chile, France's deep south and Australia, she says.

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The Daily Telegraph

Published:  23 July, 2008

As the supermarket leviathans march through Brighton and Hove, JONATHAN RAY suggests oenophiles escape to the small independent merchants in the area. To broaden your (or his) shopping pleasure, he notes that Quaff Fine Wine Merchant, run by ex-Sussex county cricketer Toby Peirce, is by a transvestite's outfitters and, near to an erotic boutique is Festival Wines, specialising in organic - orgasmic? - wines. His weekly choices include 2004 Quinta do Ca (7.99; Butlers Wine Cellar).

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The Guardian

Published:  23 July, 2008

Dedicating her column to the underappreciated winemaker', VICTORIA MOORE hails the very much appreciated (given their multiple plaudits) Alvaro Espinoza of Chile, Portugal's Dirk Niepoort, Australia's Matt Gant and bestselling author Patricia Atkinson. Espinoza's organic 2004 Mareante Hill Cabernet-Merlot (5.99, Marks & Spencer) is a top-value pick.

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Financial Times

Published:  23 July, 2008

What effect does such a fted year as 2005 have on the vintages before and after it? JANCIS ROBINSON MW says it's too early to judge the testing' 2006 vintage, but she notes that classed growth 2004 Bordeaux look even better than they did en primeur' - and a real bargain compared with 2005. Red Burgundy wasn't so lucky: her tastings have been mixed and downright depressing'. But there is joy' from whites, especially Chablis, which seems more successful than in 2005.

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The Times

Published:  23 July, 2008

JANE MacQUITTY also goes Grner this week. She disagrees that the variety is boring and bland by giving readers an annotated version of the variety's entry in The Oxford Companion to Wine, citing stats on hectolitres per hectare harvested, its percentage in total Austrian plantings and where best to plant it (the pretty terraced southern banks of the Danube' apparently). Eventually readers find out what it tastes like and where to buy some. When in Vienna, she likes the oh-so popular heurigen inns'.

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Financial Times

Published:  23 July, 2008

Explaining the desirability of the 2005 Burgundies, JANCIS ROBINSON MW says nothing went wrong except for a spot of hail in the growing season. Thanks to a lack of water, the grapes may have been pea-sized, with thick skins full of flavour, tannin and colour, but for most of the red wines, yields were relatively respectable. She agrees with Bernard Dugat-Py's view that 2005 is not like the super-ripe 1989 and 1990 vintages, because it has much more acidity and much riper tannins. If there is one dominant characteristic of the wines, she says, it is their thrilling combination of ripeness with acidity'.

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The Daily Mail

Published:  23 July, 2008

MATTHEW JUKES picks out seven affordable wines from California this week. Among them are 2004 Ravenswood Lodi Zinfandel (8.99; Thresher) and 2005 Cycles Gladiator Pinot Noir, Hahn Estates (6.99; Sainsbury's).
His Wine of the Week is 2005 Robert Mondavi Woodbridge Chardonnay (6.49-6.99; Sainsbury's, Tesco), which he says sits shoulder to shoulder with any other great Chardonnay at a similar price'.

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The Sunday Telegraph

Published:  23 July, 2008

Rich, fruity full-on wines that go well with Indian curries do not go with Thai food, says SUSY ATKINS.
She thinks Thai dishes need a more delicate touch, and a lighter, crisper style, and suggests trying an exotic wine such as 2004 Preiss-Zimmer's Gewrztraminer (6.99; Morrison's), 2006 Villa Maria Gewrztraminer (7.99; Waitrose, Majestic) or 2005 Pauletts Riesling, Polish Hill River (9.99; Majestic).

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